Dry Tooling for Beginners: A Step-by-Step Guide

The crisp scrape of a steel pick biting into a tiny rock edge, the world falling away below as you hang by a thread of metal and trust. This is the razor’s edge where dry tooling lives—a discipline that feels both alien and incredibly precise. This guide is your structured path from that first moment of curiosity to the confident, fluid movement of a seasoned practitioner, transforming complex techniques into second nature.

This journey is about more than just climbing; it’s about a clear path for skill progression and building an unshakable trust between your mind, your body, and your steel. We’ll cover everything you need for your beginner instruction, from equipment requirements to crucial safety considerations.

• Gear Up Smart: We’ll break down the essential equipment—from specialized ice axes and monopoint crampons to non-negotiable safety gear—and guide you on making smart initial investments.
• Master the Physics: You will internalize technique fundamentals like the core principles of stable tool placements, epitomized by the “90-90-90 Rule,” which is the foundation of all secure movement mechanics.
• Follow a Proven Framework: We will lay out a systematic plan to progress from novice to intermediate with structured practice drills, technical practice, and a focus on the proper mental approach.
• Climb with Conscience: You will learn the critical ethical rule of drytooling—”Do No Harm”—and discover the right location/venue options, from indoor gyms to designated outdoor quarries.

What is Dry Tooling and Why Should You Start?

This discipline, born from the practical needs of high-altitude mountaineering, has blossomed into a unique sport that offers compelling training benefits for any developing climber. It’s a world of focused movement, powerful physics, and incredible precision that allows for year-round, weather-independent practice.

What Defines Dry Tooling?

At its core, dry tooling is the discipline of ascending rock or artificial structures using ice climbing equipment—specifically ice tools and crampons—on surfaces without ice or snow. It occupies a unique technical space, a hybrid activity borrowing from sport climbing and technical ice climbing. It has a dual identity: for many, it’s a critical training method for bigger mixed climbing and ice objectives, allowing them to dial in tool-based movement for an alpine application like the Douves Blanches north face. For others, like bronze medalist Emma Powell of the GB Ice Team, it’s a standalone sport with its own competitive aspects and international circuits like the Youth Ice World Cup, offering unique competition opportunities. The fundamental difference is the mechanical interface—your tools—which changes the language of movement and helps improve ice climbing skills.

This practice traces its origins to alpinism, where mountaineers used whichever tools they had to traverse rock. The birth of modern sport drytooling, however, can be credited to Jeff Lowe’s 1994 ascent of Octopussy (M8). This pivotal ascent laid the foundation for a unique, gymnastic style that requires specific strength training and technique training. The biomechanics of this movement are so unique they are backed by research on climbing biomechanics, and experts like certified mountain guide Peter von Känel have detailed these different techniques in practical textbooks like his comprehensive work, Steep Frozen. This sport’s alpinist origins connect it to the self-sufficient ethos of traditional climbing, but its evolution has been a story all its own.

Understanding these origins gives you context, but stepping into the sport requires the right equipment. Your first major decision is assembling your specialized rack.

How Do You Gear Up for Your First Dry Tooling Session?

Selecting your first set of gear is a critical step. The goal is to make versatile, long-term investments in your tools, footwear, and safety systems that will serve you well as you progress.

What Are the Essential Ice Axes and Picks?

The modern technical ice axe, a type of modern leashless tool, is the centerpiece of your system. These technical tools are composed of several key components: the curved shaft, the multifaceted grip, the pommel, and the modular head that holds the pick. For a beginner, the ideal ice tool is a versatile all-around model.

The industry benchmark is the Petzl NOMIC axes. They’re praised for balance, swing, and an ergonomic grip that reduces pump. When you acquire your tools, you’ll need sharp picks. You’ll encounter thin ice-specific picks and thicker, more durable mixed-climbing picks like the Petzl DRY. The mixed picks feature aggressive teeth for enhanced torque capability and can withstand repeated rock contact. For this reason, novices should always start with these durable mixed picks. Proper assessing ergonomic tool design is crucial for injury prevention. For a deeper dive into ice axe selection, you can explore the full anatomy of modern tools.

Pro-Tip: Before every single session, run your finger (carefully!) along the cutting edge and tip of your picks. Feel for any small burrs or nicks from rock strikes. Use a small metal file to gently smooth these away. A smooth pick is a stable pick; a burred one can skate off holds unexpectedly.

With tools in hand, your next focus moves to your feet, where precision is just as critical as a solid tool placement.

What Footwear and Crampons Do You Need?

You have two primary options for footwear. “Option A (The Alpinist’s Start)” uses stiff mountaineering boots. “Option B (The Specialist’s Tool)” is the “fruit boots“—specialized, lightweight and precise boots like the La Sportiva Mega Ice Evos, with crampons fitted directly to the sole for ultimate precision.

Regardless of your boot choice, your crampons need a monopoint configuration. This design allows for surgical precision when you place tools and permits rotational hip movements. A versatile, modular crampon like the Petzl Lynx is an excellent investment. Its adaptability is a key feature of the Petzl Alpen Adapt system, allowing for adaptable configurations as a monopoint for dry tooling or a dual-point for other winter disciplines. Understanding the factors for preventing ankle injuries underscores the need for stiff, supportive footwear.

Your tools and footwear form the direct interface with the rock, but the system that keeps you safe is just as vital.

What Essential Safety Gear Completes Your Rack?

Beyond the specialized tools, the rest of your basic equipment is standard. Proper risk management is non-negotiable. The single most critical piece of gear is your Helmet. A standard Harness is perfectly sufficient. You’ll also need a pair of thin gloves that provide grip without compromising feel. Injury prevention starts before you even climb; implement consistent warm-up procedures to prepare your muscles.

For leading on bolted routes, you will need a standard dynamic single sport rope (typically 60m) and a rack of 12-14 Quickdraws. Effective fall prevention relies on this system and on belayer vigilance. The U.S. Army has long established clear standards for climbing safety, and these principles apply directly. Understanding the science behind climbing helmet design will reinforce why this is a piece of gear you can never compromise on.

With your equipment complete, the focus shifts from what you use to how you move. This is where you begin to build instinct.

What are the Fundamental Techniques You Must Master?

Mastering dry tooling technique means translating physics into secure, repeatable actions. By internalizing a few basic techniques, you can build a foundation for confident movement.

How Does the “90-90-90 Rule” Ensure a Secure Placement?

Popularized by the legendary climber Will Gadd, the “90-90-90 rule” is the single most important biomechanical principle for a beginner to internalize. It transforms a precarious placement into a stable anchor point by focusing on three critical alignments that demand precise body positioning and tool alignment.

1. Shaft 90° to Hold Axis: Your axe shaft must be perpendicular to the primary axis of the rock edge to prevent skating.
2. Pick 90° on Roll Axis: The plane of your pick must be at a 90-degree angle to the hold to prevent your wrist from “rolling.”
3. Pull 90° Down: The direction of your force should be straight down (towards your waist). Pulling outward dramatically increases the chance of a tool blows.

Maintaining these three alignments requires constant body tension, level feet, and conscious positioning through every move. These are the fundamental biomechanical principles of force application that govern tool stability. Adhering to this rule requires building the necessary core tension to maintain proper body position.

With the physics of a single placement understood, you can now build a reliable sequence for every move you make.

What is the Basic Movement Vocabulary?

To reduce risk, adopt a methodical four-step basic movement sequence: Plan → Place → Test → Move. This deliberate process is a cornerstone of motor learning and skill acquisition, helping you build muscle memory correctly.

1. Step 1 (Plan): From a stable stance, identify your next placements.
2. Step 2 (Place): Make a precise, quiet placement, followed by careful footwork, keeping your body’s center of gravity low.
3. Step 3 (Test): Give the tool a short, sharp tug in the intended direction of pull to confirm stability. This is critical for building trust.
4. Step 4 (Move): Only after a successful test, commit your weight and move.

Pro-Tip: During the “Test” phase, close your eyes for a split second. This forces you to rely on the tactile feedback coming through the axe shaft. You’ll quickly learn to differentiate the deep, solid “thunk” of a bomber placement from the gritty, unstable scrape of a poor one. This sensory drill builds instinct faster than any other.

Your movement vocabulary starts with three foundational placements: Hooks (Straight Pull), Torques, and Stein Pulls. As you move, always remember the principles of efficiency focus: drive with powerful leg thrust, keep your arms straight whenever possible through arm extension, and use efficient grip techniques, like keeping your hands open and thumbs relaxed, to conserve energy. Learning to change grip on the same ice tool is also a key skill. These are foundational movement concepts that apply across all climbing disciplines.

You now have the gear and the basic language of movement. The next step is to combine them within a structured learning curriculum for real, measurable progress.

How Can You Progress from Novice to Intermediate Climber?

True development comes from a structured, phase-based skill progression pathway. This Dry Tooling Progression Framework integrates physical drills, technical skills, and mental focus, providing clear milestones to guide your climbing progression.

What Does the Novice-to-Intermediate Framework Involve?

This progression is built on core principles of physical training like specificity and overload. It uses the D (Dry) grading system.

• Phase 1: Novice (First 5 Sessions)
  • Goal: Develop comfort and trust in your ice tools in a controlled indoor environment.
  • Drills: Focus on static hangs (“Tool Hangs”) and the “Silent Tools” drill.
  • Milestone: Confidently top-rope a D4-graded route indoors.
• Phase 2: Competent (Sessions 6-15)
  • Goal: Master foundational movements and begin leading easy routes.
  • Drills: Physical training introduces dynamic strength with Lock-Offs and Hanging Leg Raises.
  • Milestone: Lead a D5 route indoors cleanly and gain initial outdoor top-rope experience.
• Phase 3: Intermediate (Sessions 16+)
  • Goal: Build power-endurance for steep angles and learn advanced techniques.
  • Drills: Training becomes more intensive with Power-Endurance Circuits and Weighted Hangs. You’ll safely introduce advanced moves like the Figure-Four/Nine on a top-rope.
  • Milestone: Confidently lead a D6 route outdoors and redpoint a D7. Your mental approach shifts to overcoming psychological barriers through fear management and commitment to movement.

This framework provides a clear roadmap, much like a smart rock climbing training program adapts universal training principles. It provides the ‘what’ and ‘how’ of your training, but your progress is equally dependent on ‘where’ you practice.

Where Can You Practice Dry Tooling Ethically and Safely?

The environmental ethic of drytooling is as critical as any piece of gear or technique. Understanding and adhering to this ethic is what makes you a responsible member of the climbing community.

What is the “Golden Rule” of Dry Tooling Ethics?

The foundational principle is unambiguous: Never dry tool on established rock climbing routes. Steel tools permanently damage delicate handholds. This rule applies to any piece of rock suitable for rock climbing. The consensus is absolute: dry tooling must be confined to designated areas where the impact is irrelevant. Documented recreational impacts on cliff ecosystems provide the scientific backing for this strict separation.

This imperative should be viewed as a positive outcome. The need to avoid pristine areas has pushed the community to find value in post-industrial landscapes. We give recreational purpose to scarred places like abandoned quarries and mines. This reframing positions the sport as a form of environmental adaptation, a specific application of the broader Leave No Trace ethics that govern all responsible outdoor recreation.

Adhering to this ethic, your journey should always begin in the safest, most controlled environment.

Where Are the Ideal Venues for Beginners?

The safest place to start is an indoor facility with a dedicated dry tooling section, often made of plywood. The advantages are numerous: Safety, Focus, and Community. A prime example is The Toolbox at the Glasgow Climbing Centre.

After gaining proficiency indoors, you can transition to dedicated outdoor location/venue options. The UK is home to several key locations, often reclaimed industrial sites, a concept supported by governmental policies on the recreational reuse of post-industrial landscapes.

• The Works (Lake District): An excellent starting point with a comprehensive grading system with detailed routes from D4-D15+.
• Mannod (North Wales): A slate mine offering realistic training on natural edges for those aspiring to Scottish winter climbs.
• Newtyle (Scotland): Famous for its steep, 20-meter roof and challenging routes.
• White Goods (North Wales): Known for powerful climbing on horizontal roofs.

To navigate these areas, a guidebook like Dry Tooling Great Britain is an essential resource. These venues are typically quarries or chossy cliffs, reinforcing the sport’s ethical code.

You have the gear, the technique, the plan, and the places. Now, let’s bring it all together on your path forward.

Conclusion

Your journey from novice to competent practitioner is built on a tripartite foundation: understanding your equipment, mastery of technique fundamentals like the 90-90-90 rule, and systematic development of your mental approach. The Dry Tooling Progression Framework we’ve outlined offers a structured pathway for technical skill development. Remember, this sport is governed by a strict ethical imperative to practice only in designated venues to prevent any damage to our shared rock resources.

Your path forward is clear. Start indoors. Internalize the physics of placements until they become second nature. Engage with the community to accelerate your learning. This is how you transform knowledge into instinct.

Explore our complete library of winter climbing guides to continue building your skills for ice, mixed, and alpine terrain.

Risk Disclaimer: Rock climbing, mountaineering, and all related activities are inherently dangerous sports that can result in serious injury or death. The information provided on Rock Climbing Realms is for educational and informational purposes only. While we strive for accuracy, the information, techniques, and advice presented on this website are not a substitute for professional, hands-on instruction or your own best judgment. Conditions and risks can vary. Never attempt a new technique based solely on information read here. Always seek guidance from a qualified instructor. By using this website, you agree that you are solely responsible for your own safety. Any reliance you place on this information is therefore strictly at your own risk, and you assume all liability for your actions. Rock Climbing Realms and its authors will not be held liable for any injury, damage, or loss sustained in connection with the use of the information contained herein.

Affiliate Disclosure: We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. We also participate in other affiliate programs. Additional terms are found in the terms of service.