Ten Sleep Rock Climbing: Ultimate ’25 Field Guide

Ten Sleep Canyon, with its famed pocketed dolomite limestone, beckons climbers of every skill level. You’re likely seeking a current, all-encompassing guide for your 2025 Ten Sleep trip, one that covers the unique climbing, essential logistics, evolving ethics, and any new developments for rock climbing here. This guide is precisely that resource, designed to equip you for a successful, memorable, and responsible Ten Sleep climbing adventure. We’ll explore the nuances of the climbing, streamline your planning, highlight key crags, delve into stewardship, and cover safety. Let’s get you ready for an incredible experience in this renowned climbing area.

Ten Sleep Canyon: Unveiling a Climber’s Paradise

This section lays the groundwork for understanding Ten Sleep Canyon. We’ll explore its unique geology, why it’s a magnet for climbers, the best times to visit, and how to navigate this Wyoming gem in 2025. Exploring Ten Sleep Canyon rock climbing is an adventure in itself, offering a distinct experience from, say, a sandstone rock climb.

The Essence of Ten Sleep Climbing

Ten Sleep Canyon, nestled within Wyoming’s Bighorn National Forest, offers extensive sport climbing on Bighorn dolomite. With well over 1,000 climbing routes, some tallies reaching 1,400, it’s a sport climber’s haven with very few traditional lines. The climbing is characterized by technical face routes on vertical to gently overhanging walls, peppered with a delightful array of pockets, crimps, and edges. This technical climbing demands precise footwork and often, creative problem-solving on the rock.

The grades predominantly fall between 5.10 and 5.13, though rock climbs exist for a wide spectrum of abilities. The canyon’s elevation, varying from 5,000 to 9,000 feet, also plays a role in the experience. The unique allure of Ten Sleep lies in its high-quality routes, the distinctive feel of the dolomite, generally convenient access (many crags are a mere 15-minute walk from parking), and the breathtaking natural beauty of the area. For a general overview of the forest, you can check the Bighorn National Forest overview. Understanding the Ten Sleep Canyon climbing characteristics will further enhance your preparation. Familiarizing yourself with the fundamental rules and safety protocols in climbing is also a good starting point for any climber.

Best Seasons & Weather for Ten Sleep Rock Climbing in ’25

The prime climbing season in Ten Sleep spans from spring through autumn, with July and August being the peak months. The higher elevation of many crags, often above 7,000 feet within the Bighorn Mountains, provides more amenable summer temperatures compared to the town of Ten Sleep, which sits lower at around 4,200 feet. This elevation difference is a key factor when planning your days of rock climb activity.

For summer climbing, a common strategy is chasing shade. Many popular areas like Downtown, Mondo Beyondo, and Valhalla typically see afternoon shade around 2 p.m. If you’re looking for morning or all-day shade, crags such as Leigh Creek Canyon, The Temple, or Circus Wall are excellent options. The shoulder seasons of May, June, September, and October can offer fantastic conditions but come with a higher chance of unpredictable weather, including snow. Lower canyon crags like Dry Wall and Hound Dog Crag are often better choices for cooler days or during these shoulder months. Keep an eye out for afternoon thunderstorms in the summer, a common occurrence. For insights on seasonal climbing conditions in Ten Sleep, various resources are available. Considering Ten Sleep weather considerations is part of understanding optimal climbing seasons for any destination, a contrast to the demands of ice climbing seasons.

Getting There & Navigating the Canyon

Ten Sleep Canyon is situated along U.S. Highway 16, between Buffalo and Worland, Wyoming. Nearby airports include Cody (COD), Casper (CPR), and Sheridan (SHR). Approximate driving times from regional hubs are: Billings, MT (~3-4 hours); Jackson Hole, WY (~5-6 hours); Salt Lake City, UT (~7-8 hours); and Denver, CO (~7-8 hours), covering many miles. U.S. Highway 16 serves as the main artery through the canyon, with numerous pullouts providing parking for the various crags.

Efficient parking, typically head-in or nose-in, is critical to maximize limited space at these pullouts. The “Old Road,” officially Forest Road 18 or 435, runs parallel to the highway. This dirt road is subject to seasonal closures, usually open from mid-June to mid-November, and provides access to dispersed camping areas and some crags. Mileage markers for crag approaches are often referenced from the point where the Old Road splits from Highway 16. A good Ten Sleep destination overview can offer additional context for your Ten Sleep, Wyoming adventure.

Planning Your ’25 Ten Sleep Expedition: Logistics & Prep

This section tackles all the essential planning elements for your 2025 Ten Sleep trip. We’ll cover diverse accommodation choices, a detailed climbing equipment checklist specifically for dolomite climbing, a sample budget to help you plan, and training advice tailored to Ten Sleep’s unique style.

Basecamp Ten Sleep: Accommodation Options

The Ten Sleep Rock Ranch is a central hub, offering climber-friendly log cabin style accommodations, other cabins, campsites, showers, WiFi, a gym, and even a mail drop; check their website for current rates and policies on pets or RVs. It’s a great place to rest and find comfortable beds for the night. Another popular spot is camping at the Ten Sleep Brewing Company, featuring dry camping sites bookable via HipCamp, with amenities like porta-potties and WiFi at the taproom. The sleep rock ranch truly caters to the climbing vibe.

For USFS Developed Campgrounds, Leigh Creek and West Tensleep Lake offer basic amenities like toilets and water, with fees and reservations typically handled through Recreation.gov. These are usually open seasonally. USFS Dispersed Camping is available along the Old Road (FR18), generally free with a 14-day limit, but demands strict Leave No Trace practices, especially for human waste. Other options include the Ten Sleep RV Park for full-service sites, local inns like The Carter Inn and Deer Haven Lodge, higher elevation lodges such as Meadowlark Lake Lodge, and hotels in Worland if you prefer more amenities. You can find more about Ten Sleep Rock Ranch facilities on their site, and USFS West Tensleep Lake Campground details online. Ten Sleep lies in a beautiful valley, making these options scenic.

Gearing Up for Ten Sleep’s Dolomite

For your rope, a 70-meter dynamic rope is highly beneficial for many of Ten Sleep’s longer routes, though a 60-meter is the minimum. This longer length allows access to more classic climbs and provides a safer margin for lowering. Plan on bringing 12-16 sport quickdraws; while routes are generally well-bolted, some extended pitches might require 18-20. This essential climbing equipment is key.

Given the sharp dolomite, bringing two pairs of climbing shoes—a comfortable all-day pair and a more performance-oriented one—is a wise strategy. Stiffer climbing shoes are often preferred for the technical edging common here. Helmets are a necessity for both the climber and belayer due to the potential for loose rock. A stick clip is also highly recommended for safely clipping high first bolts. Critically, for waste management, WAG bags or portable toilet systems are indispensable for dispersed camping and any areas requiring human waste pack-out, directly linking to Leave No Trace ethics. Some climbers also pack gear from brands like Patagonia. You can find more details on essential gear for Ten Sleep from various online sources. This aligns with understanding essential climbing gear for mountains in general.

Budgeting Your Ten Sleep Adventure (’25 Estimates)

A sample budget for a 7-day trip per person can vary. For a Budget approach (dispersed camping, cooking all meals), expect $20-30/day. Mid-Range (paid camping, some meals out) might be $50-75/day. Comfort (cabin/motel, more dining out) could be $100-150+/day. These estimates cover accommodation, food/drink, showers, and miscellaneous items, but exclude guide services.

Key budget influencers are lodging choices (free dispersed camping versus paid sites/cabins) and food strategies (cooking versus eating out). Stocking up on groceries in larger towns like Worland or Buffalo before heading into the canyon can lead to significant savings. Transportation costs like gas or flights are highly variable and not included in these daily figures, but a personal vehicle is necessary for getting around locally. Most trips to Ten Sleep typically last 7-10 days, which can help you estimate overall costs. For instance, Ten Sleep Brewing Company amenities include affordable camping options.

Training for Ten Sleep’s Unique Style

Ten Sleep’s climbing is predominantly technical face climbing on pocketed dolomite, which places high demands on good technique, precise footwork, and excellent balance. Training finger strength for various pocket configurations is vital; always focus on injury prevention techniques, such as keeping your proximal phalanges aligned when pulling on pockets. This type of technical climbing is a hallmark of the climbing area.

The nature of the rock necessitates trusting small footholds and practicing controlled, deliberate movements. Power endurance is also important for the sustained nature of many routes, so train for executing multiple difficult moves consecutively. Reading the rock can be challenging on Ten Sleep’s often cryptic limestone; practice in deciphering sequences will pay dividends. For specific advice, consider resources on training for pocketed climbs or even a Ten Sleep specific training plan. Incorporating some of the best exercises for rock climbing strength into your routine will also be beneficial.

The Crags of Ten Sleep Canyon: Your ’25 Hit List

This section is your guide to the heart of Ten Sleep climbing. We’ll provide an overview of the canyon’s layout, summarize premier crags with key details for 2025, and offer in-depth descriptions of some fan-favorite areas. Discovering Ten Sleep Canyon crags is part of the adventure, with each cliff offering unique challenges.

Understanding Ten Sleep’s Layout

Ten Sleep Canyon is vast, with crags lining both US Hwy 16 and the Old Road (FR 18/435). Crags are generally grouped into the Lower Canyon, the Mondo Beyondo area, Valhalla/Upper Canyon, and even higher elevation crags along various ridges. This significant elevation variance greatly impacts conditions throughout the day and season. Approaches are typically short, often 5-15 minutes, though some, like to French Cattle Ranch, can be longer (30-40 minutes).

Climbing guidebooks and resources like Mountain Project are indispensable for navigating the 1,000+ climbing routes. Remember the importance of efficient, head-in parking at pullouts. Be aware of the ongoing new route moratorium, the history of altered routes (approximately 50 rock climbs affected), and the need to check for seasonal raptor closures, particularly in areas like Moby Dick. For example, navigating French Cattle Ranch requires good information.

Premier Crag Summary Table for ’25

The sheer number of quality crags in Ten Sleep can be overwhelming. The following table summarizes some of the premier areas to help you plan your 2025 visit. This information is compiled from various sources and should always be cross-referenced with current 2025 climbing guidebooks and online resources like Mountain Project for the latest details on route conditions, access, and any alerts. “Altered Routes” indicates areas where hardware may have been compromised in the past, and “Raptor Closure Vicinity” notes crags near historically closed zones. The new route moratorium applies canyon-wide. Many climbs share similar characteristics of high quality rock.

Many crags, like the Mondo Beyondo area details and Valhalla sector climbing, host a high concentration of routes in the 5.10 to 5.12 range, but climbers will find options both easier and harder throughout the canyon. These are some of the following climbs often highlighted as Ten Sleep classics. The rock quality is generally superb, making for many fun climbs and notable climbs. Consider this rock info when picking the right climbs for your skill level.

Deep Dive: French Cattle Ranch (FCR)

French Cattle Ranch stands out as a premier upper canyon crag, celebrated for its beautiful, high-quality dolomite rock that often displays stunning gold, white, and blue hues. It hosts approximately 79 sport routes, predominantly in the 5.10 to 5.12 range, with some pushing into 5.13 and beyond. The climbing here is typically technical and sustained, featuring pockets and edges on vertical to slightly overhanging faces.

Classics to seek out include “The El Dorado Coral Club” (5.10+), “Wyoming Flower Child” (5.11d), and “Dope Shinto” (5.12a). Access involves a 30-40 minute hike from the main Valhalla parking area (mileage marker 7.4 on Hwy 16). Alternatively, a shorter 25-minute approach is possible from mileage marker 8.6, but this may involve a hazardous river crossing, so always check water levels. FCR is well-suited for summer afternoons due to its shade. Remember the general Ten Sleep alerts: the new route moratorium is in effect, and always inspect hardware before an ascent. For route specifics, the Downpour Wall route information page on Mountain Project is a good example of the detail available for various areas.

Deep Dive: Mondo Beyondo Area (Downtown & Downpour Wall)

The Mondo Beyondo sector is a large area encompassing multiple sub-areas like Downtown and Metropolis, offering around 123 routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.13+. We’ll focus on two popular zones: Downtown and Downpour Wall. Downtown features approximately 38-40 routes, mostly in the 5.10 to 5.13 range. Notable features include The Cigar, which offers all-day shade, and the John Henry Grotto. This area typically gets morning sun and afternoon shade, with an easy 15-minute approach from the parking at mileage marker 6.5.

Downpour Wall, while south-facing, often stays surprisingly cool. It has about 28 routes, many of which are challenging 5.12s on steep, pocketed limestone rock. Classics here include “School’s Out” (5.10c/d) and “EKV” (5.12c). The approach is a bit more strenuous, taking 20-25 minutes uphill from the parking at mileage marker 7.2. When climbing in the Mondo Beyondo area, be mindful of potential raptor closures near Moby Dick, the ongoing new route moratorium, and the need for efficient parking. You can find Downtown crag specifics on Mountain Project.

Essential Resources: Ten Sleep Guidebooks for ’25

Choosing the right climbing guidebook is key to navigating Ten Sleep Canyon in 2025. This section critically evaluates available climbing guidebooks, discussing their features, underlying philosophies—especially concerning past route development controversies—and where you can purchase them.

Key Ten Sleep Guidebooks Overview

Louie Anderson’s “Ten Sleep Canyon Climbing“ (Wolverine Publishing, 2nd Ed. 2023) is a comprehensive print climbing guidebook detailing over 1,400 routes with maps, cliff photos, and local information; Anderson, a prolific climber and Ten Sleep guidebook author, is also the owner of the Ten Sleep Rock Ranch. Mike Snyder offers the Rakkup Digital Guidebook titled “Ten Sleep Rock Climbing,” a continuously updated digital resource with over 900 routes, GPS navigation, and smart topos. This guide is noted for its approach to manufactured routes, often giving them a lower rating or noting damage.

Aaron Huey has produced several climbing guidebooks known for their distinctive artistic style and inclusion of local lore; some editions, like “Lies and Propaganda” or “Holy Ten Sleep Electric Koolaide…”, are considered collector’s items. The Bighorn Climbers’ Coalition (BCC) published the “$25 Punk Rock…Climbing Guide” in 2016, a community-benefit project with a unique personality, though it’s less current now. You can find Louie Anderson’s Ten Sleep guidebook via Wolverine Publishing and the Rakkup digital Ten Sleep guide on their platform. A dedicated bouldering guidebook for Ten Sleep is less common as it’s primarily a sport climbing area.

Guidebook Philosophies & ’25 Currency

Your climbing guidebook choice can reflect an awareness of Ten Sleep’s complex route development history, particularly the controversy surrounding manufactured routes linked to Louie Anderson. Mike Snyder’s Rakkup guide is often lauded for its transparent handling of these manufactured routes and the significant advantage of digital updates, which provide current information on route status, access changes, and Climbing Management Plan (CMP) developments.

Aaron Huey’s guides offer unique artistic and historical perspectives, though they might be less current for precise route data. The BCC’s 2016 guide stands as a community-supporting option, with proceeds benefiting local stewardship efforts. It’s also worth noting the Tensleep Canyon Aerospace Society’s (TCAS) stated intent to produce a future community-generated, ethically focused climbing guidebook. For more on TCAS, refer to the Tensleep Canyon Aerospace Society goals. The Ten Sleep aerospace society aims to support responsible development.

Purchasing Your ’25 Ten Sleep Guide

Louie Anderson’s 2023 guide can be purchased directly from the Wolverine Publishing website and is likely available at the Ten Sleep Rock Ranch. Mike Snyder’s Rakkup guide is accessible via the Rakkup website or through their mobile app, available for both iOS and Android devices. Aaron Huey’s climbing guidebooks, due to their varied print runs and artistic nature, are often found through online retailers like Amazon or Thriftbooks, and occasionally in specialty climbing shops; some editions may have limited availability.

The BCC’s 2016 guide might still be found in some local or regional shops, but availability could be scarce. The TCAS climbing guidebook is a future project and not yet available. For the most current information in 2025, a regularly updated digital guide like Rakkup is highly recommended, while print guides offer other benefits like broader coverage or a physical keepsake. Some BCC guidebook information might also be found through community resources.

Climbing with Conscience: Ethics, Stewardship & Ten Sleep’s Future

This vital section addresses the ethical responsibilities of every climber visiting Ten Sleep. We’ll focus on Leave No Trace principles, the current status of the Climbing Management Plan, the route development controversy, the role of stewardship organizations, and how you, as an individual climber, can contribute positively in 2025. Many climbers are passionate about these issues.

The Ten Sleep Ethos & LNT Deep Dive

The small town of Ten Sleep (sometimes affectionately referred to as Sleep) can feel the impact of the climber influx, so local sensitivities are important. Be courteous, support local businesses like Dirty Sally’s, the Saloon, and the Brewery, and respect the local way of life. Applying the seven Leave No Trace Principles is paramount. Plan Ahead & Prepare: Research current conditions, including weather, closures, and CMP status, and bring proper gear like ample water and waste systems. The climbing vibe here is generally welcoming, but it relies on respectful visitors.

Travel & Camp on Durable Surfaces: Always stay on established trails and use existing campsites to minimize impact. Dispose of Waste Properly: This is critical. Pack out all toilet paper and hygiene products. For human waste, catholes dug 200 feet from water sources and trails are permissible IF allowed in that specific zone, but WAG bags or portable toilet systems are mandatory in many areas, especially for dispersed camping. Pack out all trash. Avoid washing dishes or bodies in streams. Leave What You Find: Do not chip, drill, or glue holds. Do not remove fixed hardware unless you are qualified and it’s unsafe.

Respect natural features and cultural artifacts. Minimize Campfire Impacts: Use existing fire rings, keep fires small, and ensure they are “dead out.” Always check current fire restrictions. Respect Wildlife: Adhere to raptor closures, keep dogs leashed, and store food properly. Be Considerate of Other Visitors: Manage noise levels, park courteously, and be patient at popular crags. For more on Ten Sleep community relations and general Leave No Trace principles for climbers, refer to dedicated resources. Many climbers understand the importance of prioritizing Leave No Trace ethics from experiences in other sensitive areas.

Tensleep Canyon Climbing Management Plan (CMP) Update

The Tensleep Canyon Climbing Management Plan (CMP) is a U.S. Forest Service initiative, managed by the Powder River Ranger District, aimed at guiding future climbing management in the canyon. As of early 2025, the CMP is officially “On Hold” or “Paused.” This delay is due to USFS staffing constraints and ongoing tribal consultation requirements. Implementation, which was once anticipated for early 2025, is now indefinitely postponed. Ten Sleep sits in a region requiring careful management.

The CMP’s purpose is to address the impacts of the canyon’s increasing popularity, including issues related to route development, trail sustainability, parking congestion, and waste management. A draft released in Fall 2023 proposed several measures: ending the new route moratorium, managing new routes, prohibiting hold manufacturing, closing certain sensitive areas, improving parking and trails, and addressing waste disposal.

For climbers in 2025, the most significant impact of the CMP’s delay is that the moratorium on new route and trail development, in place since July 2019, REMAINS IN EFFECT. Climbers must check the official Bighorn National Forest website or the Bighorn Climbers’ Coalition for any updates. The ongoing delay also means that systemic issues like parking and waste infrastructure may not see improvements in 2025, placing an even greater responsibility on individual climbers to minimize their impact. You can check the Tensleep Canyon Climbing Management Plan status on the USFS site or find updates on Ten Sleep climbing plan from local news sources.

The Route Development Saga: A Balanced View

“Manufacturing” in climbing refers to altering the rock by chipping, gluing, or drilling to create or enhance holds, a practice widely condemned by the climbing community. The 2018-2019 period in Ten Sleep was marked by controversy surrounding route manufacturing, with Louie Anderson acknowledging his role and citing his rationale, which led to significant backlash and the formation of the Tensleep Canyon Aerospace Society (TCAS). Routes like “Funky Town” and “Trump Tower” became focal points. The lies and misinformation around some of these events caused further division.

In July 2019, this escalated to acts described as “vigilante justice,” where approximately 30 routes were bolt-chopped, and others were padlocked, actions that were themselves controversial. Due to these unresolved issues, the USFS implemented a moratorium on new route development in July 2019, which remains in effect pending the finalization and implementation of the CMP. The draft CMP explicitly proposed prohibiting any future manufacturing of holds. Approximately 50 climbs in the canyon have been affected by either manufacturing or subsequent alterations where bolts or anchors may be compromised, or epoxy/glue is present in pockets. Climbers should exercise extreme caution, meticulously inspect all hardware, and consult resources like Mountain Project alerts or Mike Snyder’s Rakkup guide, which is transparent about these issues. For background, articles on the Ten Sleep route manufacturing controversy and the Forest Service intervention in Tensleep provide more context. An unsuspecting climber could be at risk on these compromised routes.

Guardians: Bighorn Climbers’ Coalition & Access Fund

The Bighorn Climbers’ Coalition (BCC) is a local 501(c)(3) non-profit organization dedicated to preserving access and promoting stewardship in the Bighorn Basin’s climbing areas. Their key work includes the Bighorn Anchor Initiative, which focuses on replacing old and unsafe hardware, funding and maintaining essential porta-potties in the canyon, organizing the annual Ten Sleep Climbing Festival, conducting highway cleanups, and collaborating closely with the USFS on the Climbing Management Plan. These bighorn climbers are vital to the community.

The Access Fund is a national advocacy organization that works to protect America’s climbing areas through policy efforts, stewardship projects, land acquisition, and climber education. Their involvement in Ten Sleep has included trail building, area rehab projects, LNT education initiatives, collaboration on the CMP, and co-funding a BCC Anchor Replacement grant. You can support these organizations by donating, becoming a member of the BCC or Access Fund, volunteering for trail days or cleanups, attending and supporting the Ten Sleep Climbing Festival, reporting bad hardware to the BCC, and educating fellow climbers. Learn more about Bighorn Climbers’ Coalition initiatives and the Access Fund’s role in Ten Sleep on their respective websites.

Beyond the Bolts: Making the Most of Your Ten Sleep Trip

This section looks at activities for those well-deserved rest days and highlights local amenities in the town of Ten Sleep, encouraging you to experience more of what the Bighorn Basin offers. We’ll also cover options for guided services and clinics if you’re looking to up your game before you finish climbing for the day.

Rest Day Adventures & Local Attractions

On rest days, consider exploring the Bighorn Mountains through hiking, mountain biking, or trail running. Swimming and fishing in Ten Sleep Creek or nearby lakes can be refreshing, but always respect water quality. Nearby attractions include the Ten Sleep Pioneer Museum (often called the sleep museum) for a dose of local history, and the Medicine Lodge State Archaeological Site (a 45-60 minute drive) which features fascinating petroglyphs. The Washakie Museum in Worland (30-45 minutes away) delves into the broader history of the Bighorn Basin. The local Ten Sleep Fish Hatchery is another point of interest for some.

For longer day trips, the Wyoming Dinosaur Center and Hot Springs State Park in Thermopolis are about 1.5 hours away. Castle Gardens Scenic Area, with its unique sandstone formations and petroglyphs, is further south but offers a memorable experience. If you’re not fully resting, you might explore other Bighorn climbing areas like Piney Creek or Steamboat Point (though these may involve more rugged terrain or even some light alpine climbing elements compared to Ten Sleep Canyon’s sport climbs), provided you have an appropriate climbing guidebook. The Ten Sleep Rodeo Association also hosts events that showcase local culture. For general information on the surrounding wilderness, the Bighorn Mountains Wilderness information page by the BLM is a useful resource. Effective planning for rest day activities is part of any good climbing trip. Some travelling climbers even venture to areas like Cody for bouldering, though it’s a different scene from Ten Sleep’s sport climbing.

Fueling Up & Chilling Out: Ten Sleep Town Amenities

For food and drink, the Ten Sleep Brewing Company is a popular social hub offering craft beer and often hosting food trucks. The Ten Sleep Saloon & Restaurant (the sleep saloon) serves up burgers and a classic Western vibe. Other spots include the Sleepy Coyote Bar and Cafe, Bighorn Bar, and Broken O Coffee. For groceries and supplies, Dirty Sally’s General Store (the sleep store) has basics, ice cream, and gifts, though staples can be pricier; it’s advisable to stock up at larger supermarkets in Worland or Buffalo. The town itself is often quiet, almost asleep compared to bustling city centers.

Other services in town include gasoline at Pony Express. Paid showers are available at the Ten Sleep Rock Ranch ($4), the Brewery ($3), and the local RV Park – please use these facilities rather than public restrooms or the creek for bathing. WiFi can be found at the Rock Ranch and the Brewery. Public spaces for relaxing include Liberty Park and the Ten Sleep library. Climbing equipment selection is limited, but the Rock Ranch usually stocks chalk, some hardware, and skin care products. They also offer a mail drop service. Check the Ten Sleep Rock Ranch amenities for more details. You might even find some useful climbing supplies and gifts in town.

Level Up: Guided Services & Clinics in Ten Sleep

Several reputable guide services operate in Ten Sleep, offering inclusive climbing experiences for new climbers and the more experienced climber alike. Wyoming Mountain Guides (WMG) offers custom guided sport climbing for all abilities, from single to multi-day trips, led by experienced local guides. They also run youth camps. Rates are typically around $375 for one person for a full day. Bighorn Mountain Guides (BMG) provides half and full-day rock climbing instruction, intro courses, and clinics, often collaborating with the BCC for festival intros.

IRIS Alpine offers scheduled clinics, such as a 2-day sport climbing clinic for around $585 per person, which may include a campsite, maintaining a 4:1 client-to-guide ratio. Introductory courses, like WMG’s Intro to Rock Climbing, cover foundational skills, top-rope safety, movement, LNT principles, often held at crags like Mondo, Leigh Creek, or Dry Ten Sleep Creek. For those looking to train specifically for the area, Power Company Climbing offers a “Ten Sleep 5.12 Trip Prep Plan,” a 7-week online program. You can find information on Wyoming Mountain Guides Ten Sleep trips, Bighorn Mountain Guides services, and IRIS Alpine climbing clinics on their websites. These services can help you learn essential climbing skills safely. Even a talented climber can benefit from local expertise.

Safety First: Navigating Regulations & Hazards in ’25

This section focuses on critical safety information for your 2025 Ten Sleep trip. We’ll cover how to stay informed about raptor closures and other alerts, understand campfire regulations, and be aware of potential wildlife encounters and climbing-specific hazards. Patient climbers who take time for safety will have a better trip.

Staying Informed: Raptor Closures & Critical Alerts

Raptor Closures are seasonal measures implemented by the USFS, typically from spring until mid-August (often August 15th), to protect nesting peregrine falcons. The Moby Dick area, including crags like Dough Boy and Queequeg’s Coffin off FR18, is frequently affected. Compliance with these voluntary closures is crucial. To check for closures in 2025, consult the Bighorn NF official website (look for “Alerts & Notices”), the BCC website/social media, Mountain Project (main Ten Sleep page and individual crag pages), local climber hubs like the Rock Ranch, or contact the USFS Powder River Ranger District directly.

Other critical alerts to stay updated on include the “on hold” status of the Tensleep Canyon Climbing Management Plan and the ongoing new route moratorium (still in effect as of early 2025). Also, maintain awareness of the approximately 50 routes that have been altered or potentially rendered unsafe due to past manufacturing or subsequent actions. The USFS often posts Bighorn NF alerts and notices online. This is similar to checking for seasonal falcon nesting closures in other climbing areas.

Campfire Regulations: Know Before You Burn

In developed USFS Campgrounds, fires are usually permitted only in designated grates/rings. For dispersed camping within the Bighorn National Forest, the best practice is to use existing fire rings to minimize impact. If you must create a new one (and it’s permitted), ensure minimal disturbance. It’s imperative to verify the current Bighorn NF dispersed campfire rules specifically for the Ten Sleep Canyon area.

ALWAYS check for current fire restrictions before even considering a campfire. These can be found on the Bighorn NF website, at ranger district offices, or on campground bulletin boards. Restrictions can limit or entirely ban fires depending on conditions. General fire safety practices include never leaving a fire unattended, keeping it small, having water/shovel nearby, and ensuring it is “dead out” (cold to touch) before leaving. Follow rules for firewood collection (typically dead/downed only) and pack out any unburned trash from fire pits. For reference, the NPS has general Bighorn Canyon NRA campfire rules, though USFS rules will specifically apply in Ten Sleep.

Wildlife Encounters & Other Potential Hazards

Be aware of local wildlife. Black bears inhabit the area, so proper food storage is essential; use bear-resistant containers, store food in your vehicle, or use a proper bear hang. Rattlesnakes are also present, so be cautious in rocky areas and along trails. Other mammals like elk, deer, and moose may be encountered; observe them from a safe distance and never feed wildlife. The rock quality in general is good, but natural hazards exist.

Weather hazards include afternoon thunderstorms, which can bring lightning, rain, and temperature drops – retreat to safety if storms approach. Temperature swings can be significant, so dress in layers. Snow is possible at high elevations even during summer months. Climbing Hazards: Loose Rock (dolomite can have flakes/blocks – test holds, helmets essential), Anchor/Bolt Awareness (EXTRA VIGILANT due to manufacturing/alterations – inspect hardware, report concerns), Rockfall (natural or from parties above). General Outdoor Safety: First aid kit, adequate water/food, inform someone of your plans, and being aware that cell service is unreliable in much of the canyon. The USFS provides guidance on Bighorn National Forest recreation safety. The importance of wearing a climbing helmet cannot be overstated for any rock climb.

Key Takeaways for Your Ten Sleep ’25 Adventure

• Meticulous planning is paramount for a successful Ten Sleep trip: understand seasonal weather patterns, pack appropriate gear (a 70m rope and WAG bags are highly recommended), and be prepared to chase shade during warmer months. Ten Sleep is now one of the premier limestone climbing areas in Wyoming, and preparation helps you enjoy it.
• A non-negotiable commitment to Leave No Trace ethics is crucial. Pay special attention to proper human waste disposal to protect the canyon’s fragile environment and uphold the climber reputation.
• Staying informed on access issues is critical for 2025. This includes the current “on hold” status of the Tensleep Canyon Climbing Management Plan, the ongoing new route moratorium, and vigilance for seasonal raptor closures.
• Support local stewardship efforts by considering a donation to or membership with the Bighorn Climbers’ Coalition and/or the Access Fund. Recognize their vital role in maintaining and improving climbing resources in the canyon.
• Strive to be a courteous and responsible visitor. Your actions contribute to ensuring Ten Sleep remains a premier and welcoming climbing destination for everyone, aligning with our shared goal of fostering sustainable climbing practices. The Ten Sleep Canyon is a world-class sport climbing destination worth protecting.

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