Master Climbing Devils Tower: Routes, Regs & Respect

For those planning on climbing Devils Tower Wyoming, this iconic monolith pierces the Wyoming sky, its unique geological features beckoning climbers globally. This world-renowned climbing destination, a prominent feature in Wyoming, is a place of duality: a premier test piece for rock climbing enthusiasts and a profoundly sacred cultural site for numerous Native American Tribes within Devils Tower National Monument. This article serves as a definitive guide to climbing the Devil’s Tower, aiming to equip you with the knowledge to understand its classic Devils Tower climbing routes, navigate the NPS Devils Tower climbing regulations, and approach this majestic mountain-like formation with the reverence it deserves. We’ll explore the practicalities and the spirit of climbing here, so read on to plan your summit climb.

Deciphering The Climb: Routes, Geology & Wyoming Conditions

Climbing Devils Tower, a unique climbing area, is an experience unlike any other, largely defined by its striking geology and the specific style of ascent it demands. We will explore the phonolite porphyry columns that make up this incredible structure, discuss the traditional crack climbing and other rock climbing techniques required, and detail some of the most iconic rock climbs and Devils Tower climbing routes, including the Durrance Route Devils Tower and Wiessner Route. Understanding these elements and the terrain is key to appreciating and preparing for the Wyoming climbing conditions at the Tower. This is serious technical climbing.

The Tower’s Unique Geology and Climbing Style

The striking appearance of Devils Tower is a direct result of its fascinating geological formation of the Tower. It’s an igneous intrusion, specifically phonolite porphyry, whose slow cooling and erosion led to the formation of incredible hexagonal columns and other formations. These tall features create hundreds of parallel crack climbs, establishing the Tower as a premier crack climbing Devils Tower destination. For more on its structure, consider exploring world-class columnar jointing examples.

The climbing here is predominantly traditional (trad) climbing, a style that requires a deep understanding of placing protection and a mastery of varied techniques. You’ll encounter everything from delicate finger locks and solid hand jams to strenuous fist jams and challenging offwidth sections, often utilizing stemming techniques between the massive columns. The phonolite porphyry itself offers unique friction. A solid foundation in understanding traditional crack climbing is invaluable before attempting an ascent.

Cracks on the Tower vary dramatically, from those barely accepting fingertips to chimneys wide enough to swallow a climber whole. Some of these features are among the longest continuous cracks globally, stretching nearly 400 feet. This variety demands not only a versatile skill set from any rock climber but also a comprehensive rack of gear. What kind of crack systems do you find most engaging?

A noteworthy characteristic of many older climbing routes on Devils Tower is their “sandbagged” nature. This means historical grades often feel significantly more challenging than their counterparts in modern gyms or sport climbing areas. Climbers should approach grade selection with humility, perhaps choosing routes a grade or two below what they might comfortably lead elsewhere, starting from the base.

Classic Routes: The Durrance Route (5.7+)

The Durrance Route stands as one of the most famous classic climbs and frequently attempted climbs on Devils Tower, often considered a rite of passage for those visiting. It presents varied and engaging climbing, requiring solid multi-pitch climbing techniques across its 4 to 6 pitches, featuring the iconic Leaning Column and memorable crack systems that define the Devils Tower climbing routes experience up its impressive wall.

A general characterization of its pitches includes the initial Leaning Column, followed by the main Durrance Crack, which often presents the crux and typically protects well with a #4 Camalot. Subsequent pitches like the Cussin’ Crack and Flake Crack lead towards the summit, often via interesting ledges, with options like the Jump Traverse or Bailey Direct finish. For more specific information, you can find detailed Durrance Route beta from community sources.

Climbers should be prepared for specific challenges on the Durrance. The rock can be polished from high traffic, and the sustained nature of the crack climbing can feel strenuous for the 5.7+ grade. Crowds are also common, and many climbers find an early start highly advisable. The first ascent of the Durrance Route by Jack Durrance in 1938 marked a key moment in the Tower’s history.

Gear for the Durrance typically involves a standard double rack for mountain climbing with an emphasis on hand to fist-sized pieces. The specific recommendation for a #4 Camalot for the second pitch crux is worth heeding. Two ropes are standard for the multi-pitch rappel descent after the ascent, a common practice for most routes on the Tower.

Historic Lines: The Wiessner Route (5.7+)

The Wiessner Route holds a special place in Devils Tower history as the first technical free climbing route established on the monolith. Fritz Wiessner, with William P. House and Lawrence Coveney, achieved this in 1937, a landmark history of climbing Devils Tower moment showcasing remarkable skill with minimal protection for the era. This was a significant first free ascent for its time, establishing a new standard.

This historic line, typically climbed in 3-4 pitches, is known for its sustained nature and a particularly memorable wide crack or chimney section that Wiessner himself noted. It offers a distinct experience from the Durrance, often feeling more committing and reflecting the “old school” character of early ascents. An account of the first technical ascent provides fascinating insight into this achievement.

The historical significance of Wiessner’s climb cannot be overstated. He employed his considerable skill and boldness, using only a single piton for the entire ascent, which he later stated was unnecessary. This bold approach set a high standard for clean climbing ethics and future free ascent attempts from the outset. Reading perspectives on the Wiessner Route experience can offer a deeper appreciation for its character.

Gear considerations for the Wiessner are similar to the Durrance, requiring a standard double rack. However, climbers might find a greater need for larger pieces to protect the wider sections encountered on the route. As with most Tower climbs, two ropes are standard to facilitate the rappel descent.

Other Notable Devils Tower Routes

Beyond the two most famous lines, Devils Tower offers a wealth of other popular and notable climbs, showcasing the variety available. For instance, El Cracko Diablo (5.8) is renowned for its excellent and sustained crack climbing, providing high-quality movement and good protection over its multiple pitches. You can often find current beta for El Cracko Diablo to plan your ascent.

For those seeking more advanced challenges, the McCarthy West Face variations, with grades ranging from 5.10b to 5.11b, are popular. These lines, often on a major buttress or face, feature engaging roof cruxes and sustained, intricate crack systems that test seasoned trad crack climbers. Reviewing information on various McCarthy West Face routes can help identify a suitable challenge.

Another test piece, El Matador (5.10d), is famous for its demanding stem-box crux pitch. This route has seen notable ascents and truly tests a climber’s technical skill, body awareness, and endurance. Proper selection of shoes for challenging and engaging lines can make a difference on such technical terrain.

To round out the picture, routes like Soler (5.9), Assembly Line (5.9), Pseudo-Wiessner (5.8), and TAD (5.7+) are also well-regarded. We encourage climbers to research further based on their preferred grade and climbing style, as the Tower holds countless adventures, predominantly crack routes, with minimal slab climbs, but with a few face climbs or sections on certain lines.

The Practicalities: Gear, Logistics & Safety for Climbing Devils Tower Wyoming

Successfully climbing Devils Tower hinges on meticulous preparation, bordering on light mountaineering in its seriousness, covering everything from the right climbing equipment and Devils Tower trad climbing gear to understanding local logistics near Sundance, Wyoming, and, most importantly, adhering to critical safety protocols. This section focuses on the essential practical knowledge needed for any trip to this northeast Wyoming landmark, including what to pack, the best time to climb Devils Tower, parking, and how to approach your ascent with safety at the forefront.

Essential Traditional Climbing Gear

A comprehensive traditional (trad) climbing rack is non-negotiable for an ascent of Devils Tower. This typically includes a double set of cams covering a broad spectrum of sizes. Many climbers favor Black Diamond C4s from 0.3 up to #3 or even #4, though some prefer a custom rock protection setup with varied brands; Totems are also popular for their holding power in varied placements.

A full set of nuts is another cornerstone of your rack; offset nuts can be particularly effective in the Tower’s often parallel-sided or subtly flared cracks. Naturally, a nut tool is essential for retrieving this passive protection. Consider reviewing general gear recommendations for Devils Tower as you build your kit of climbing equipment.

To manage rope drag on pitches that may wander, approximately 10-12 alpine draws (extendable slings) are highly recommended. While standard quickdraws have their place, the versatility of using alpine draws to reduce rope drag is invaluable on multi-pitch routes. This is a common topic in any community discussion on Devils Tower gear.

The standard practice on Devils Tower is to use two ropes, typically 60m or 70m in length, for multi-pitch routes. This is primarily for facilitating rappels, as many descents require them, and it offers redundancy if one rope gets stuck. A climbing helmet is an absolute must due to the persistent hazard of rockfall, along with appropriate climbing shoes and harness.

Best Times to Climb & Logistics

The optimal climbing seasons at Devils Tower are generally late summer and fall – specifically August, September, and October – and spring, during April and May. These periods typically offer moderate temperatures and more stable weather patterns, importantly avoiding the June voluntary closure Devils Tower climbing period. Information on best seasons for Devils Tower climbing can help narrow down your dates. While Devils Tower is unique, it’s part of a broader region of natural wonders in the state of Wyoming, with Yellowstone and the Cody area being other major attractions, though distinct in their geology and offerings.

Be aware that summer conditions in July and August can be extremely hot, particularly on south-facing routes like the Durrance. Conversely, winter climbing is possible but can present harsh, cold, and icy conditions, especially on north-facing aspects, making ascents significantly more challenging and serious. Always check the forecast before you commit. Weather can be influenced by larger systems affecting the Bighorn Mountains (also known as the Big Horns Mountains or Big Horns) to the west.

Regarding logistics like accommodation, options range from camping to nearby establishments like the Devils Tower Lodge or Bear Lodge Motel. Parking for climbers is a key consideration. The National Park Service (NPS) encourages climbers to use the lower, gravel portion of the main visitor center parking lot. This area often provides more shade and has a separate exit. During peak season, arriving early is strongly advised as parking is limited. You can find NPS guidance on parking for climbers on their website.

Approach trails to the various routes differ, with some involving a scramble or a short hike over extensive boulder fields. It’s important for climbers to use established trails wherever possible to minimize their impact on the fragile ground and vegetation surrounding the Tower. The Tower Trail loop offers a scenic flat stage hike around the base for non-climbers or for recon. How much do approach conditions factor into your route selection?

Critical Safety Considerations

Rockfall is a significant and frequent hazard when climbing Devils Tower Wyoming. The National Park Service (NPS) strongly emphasizes that climbing helmets are strongly recommended for all climbers and visitors near the base. Helmets have been credited with preventing serious injuries and should be considered essential climbing equipment.

Weather hazards are another major concern. Conditions on and around the Tower can change with alarming speed, bringing thunderstorms with lightning (a severe risk on an exposed monolith), hail, and rain that can make the phonolite porphyry incredibly slippery. This can lead to hypothermia or, in warmer months, extreme heat stress. Reviewing official park safety guidelines is a crucial planning step.

Rappel dangers cannot be overstated; a majority of accidents at Devils Tower occur during descents. The NPS does not maintain fixed anchors, so climbers must thoroughly inspect any existing anchors and be prepared to back them up or build their own. Two ropes are generally required for rappels, and extreme care must be taken to prevent ropes from getting stuck in the numerous cracks. Reading about examples of climbing incidents at Devils Tower can underscore these risks.

Finally, reinforce the commitment level. Even routes considered “easier” on the YDS scale are serious undertakings that demand solid trad climbing skills, good physical fitness, and complete self-sufficiency, akin to light alpine objectives. Rescue operations are complex and not guaranteed, and the nearest significant trauma care facility is approximately 60 miles away from the peak. A responsible climber prepares for self-sufficiency.

Navigating Guide Services & Guidebooks

For those new to traditional (trad) climbing, multi-pitch environments, or Devils Tower specifically, or even a talented climber looking for local expertise, hiring a guide service can be a sound decision. Reputable, AMGA-accredited (a national climbing organization focused on training and standards) Devils Tower & Needles Rock Climbing Guides and other Wyoming Mountain Guides operate in the climbing area, offering expert instruction and local knowledge. You can often find information on AMGA-accredited guide services to begin your search.

Several print climbing guidebook options cover Devils Tower climbing routes, such as “Devils Tower Climbing” by Zach Orenczak and Rachael Lynn, or older editions like the “Devils Tower National Monument Climbing Handbook.” It’s worth noting that guidebooks, even those by prolific climbers with extensive local knowledge, can sometimes have varied reviews regarding the accuracy of route descriptions or grades.

It’s highly important to supplement any print climbing guidebook with current online resources. Websites like Mountain Project, run by climber organizations or community platforms, are invaluable for the latest route beta, current conditions, and recent community discussions, as information about routes, access, or fixed gear can change. Checking community reviews of Devils Tower guidebooks can also offer perspectives.

Our advice is to cross-reference information from multiple sources. Be prepared for potential discrepancies between different beta sources, especially concerning route grades, gear requirements, and the character of pitches. This diligence contributes to a safer and more enjoyable rock climb.

Rules of Ascent: NPS Regulations, Permits & The June Closure

Climbing at Devils Tower National Monument is a privilege, and with it comes the responsibility of adhering to specific NPS Devils Tower climbing regulations. This includes understanding the mandatory registration and climbing permits Devils Tower system for recreational climbing, the vital June voluntary climbing ban period (also known as the voluntary climbing closure), seasonal falcon nesting closures, and other park rules designed to protect the Tower and its environment, including the Bear Lodge area.

Mandatory Climber Registration & Permits

All individuals intending to climb or scramble above the primary boulder field at Devils Tower must register with the National Park Service (NPS). This registration is mandatory, free for recreational climbers, and effectively serves as your climbing permits Devils Tower; eager climbers should complete this first. This process is crucial for park management and climber safety.

The registration process is straightforward: climbers fill out a registration card, available at the climbing kiosk located in the visitor center parking area, before beginning their ascent. Upon completing the climb or attempt, a stub from this card is deposited. This data helps the NPS track usage patterns and manage climbing resources effectively at the Tower site. For complete details, refer to the official NPS climbing information and registration page.

It’s important to understand that failure to register is a federal violation and can result in citations and fines. The system is in place not only for regulatory purposes but also for climber safety, enabling the NPS to have a record of who is on the Tower, and for historical record-keeping. Adherence helps in understanding park rules for climbers.

Commercial activities, such as professional guiding services or commercial filming related to climbing, operate under a different system. These require separate Special Use Permits and Commercial Use Authorizations from the NPS, which involve distinct application processes and may include fees. Information on these can be found by looking into details on special use permits.

The Crucial June Voluntary Climbing Closure

The June Voluntary Climbing Closure is a cornerstone of respectful recreation at Devils Tower. The National Park Service (NPS) strongly encourages all climbers to voluntarily refrain from ascending the Tower for the entire month of June. This is a critical measure of respect for the Native American Tribes / Indigenous Peoples, including the Lakota (Dakota), for whom the Tower (often known as Bear Lodge) is a sacred site and a location for cultural and spiritual activities.

This voluntary climbing closure has been in place since the mid-1990s and has seen an average compliance rate of around 85%. This significantly reduces climber numbers during a culturally sensitive period. Commercial guiding operations are not authorized by the NPS to operate on the Tower in June. The NPS information on the June voluntary closure provides more background.

Organizations such as the Access Fund support this voluntary climbing closure, recognizing the importance of balancing recreational opportunities with the deep cultural respect owed to this Sacred site climbing ethics Devils Tower. The NPS relies on climber self-regulation and ongoing educational programs to encourage widespread compliance, as highlighted in documents like an official NPS news release on June closure.

This closure is more than just a guideline; it’s an ethical consideration. It allows a dedicated time for cultural reflection and uninterrupted ceremonies at a site of profound spiritual importance. Choosing to honor this closure for the ‘Bear Lodge‘ (or Devil‘s Tower, as it is commonly known to the non-native public) is a direct way climbers can show respect. The nearby lodge facilities also respect these periods.

Wildlife Protection: Falcon Nesting Closures

Protecting wildlife is a key responsibility at Devils Tower National Monument, and this includes seasonal closures for nesting raptors. These closures are implemented to safeguard prairie and peregrine falcons, which frequently choose the cliffs and eye-catching rock formations of Devils Tower for their eyries (nests). These protective periods typically run from around March 15th until the young falcons fledge, which can extend as late as mid-August.

These closures are not fixed; they affect specific Devils Tower climbing routes or even entire faces of the Tower, depending on where the falcons decide to nest in any given year. It is every climber’s responsibility to be fully aware of any active closures before planning or beginning an ascent. Which routes have you seen affected by such closures in other climbing areas?

To find the most up-to-date information on current falcon nesting closures, climbers should always consult the official National Park Service (NPS) website for Devils Tower. Information is also typically posted on bulletin boards within the park and available by inquiring at the visitor center. This is the primary source for current climbing closure information.

Respecting these closures is vital. It ensures the successful nesting and fledging of these protected birds of prey, contributing directly to the conservation of wildlife, including raptors and other species like bears (though less common on the Tower walls themselves), within the Devils Tower National Monument, Wyoming. Adherence helps maintain a healthy ecosystem for all to appreciate.

Other Key Park Regulations & LNT

Devils Tower National Monument has a strict bolting policy to maintain the traditional climbing character of the formation. The installation of new bolts or fixed pitons is prohibited. Replacement of existing, aging bolts may be allowed but requires a specific permit obtained from the Devils Tower climbing management staff.

Other important prohibitions include the requirement for climbers to remove all gear after their climb (no stashing ropes, cams, etc.). Camping or bivouacking on the Tower itself is forbidden. Furthermore, pets are not allowed on the Tower or its trails.

Leave No Trace (LNT) principles are paramount. Climbers must pack out ALL waste, and this explicitly includes human waste. The use of WAG bags is highly recommended and they are often available for purchase locally. Staying on established trails is crucial to minimize erosion and avoid damaging fragile vegetation, especially on the summit plateau where even small tree rock ecosystems exist. Following Leave No Trace principles for climbers is a core tenet of responsible recreation, and for specific guidance, resources like those from Wyoming Mountain Guides on LNT can be very helpful. Every sustainable rock climber should champion these ethics.

Altering the rock in any way – by chipping, gluing holds, excessive cleaning of lichen or moss, or drilling on its vertical columns or infrequent sheer slabs – is strictly prohibited. These NPS Devils Tower climbing regulations are in place to protect the natural integrity and cultural resources of this unique national monument for everyone.

Climbing with Reverence: Cultural Significance & Respect

Climbing Devils Tower offers an unparalleled physical challenge, but it also demands a deep understanding of its profound cultural and spiritual importance. Known as Bear Lodge (Mato Tipila) to many Native American tribes, this is Sacred site climbing ethics Devils Tower. This section explores this significance, the meaning behind oral traditions, and the ethical considerations for climbers to ensure how they perceive climbing and conduct their activities with the utmost respect for Native American people; Devils Tower is a name more common to non-natives.

Bear Lodge: A Sacred Site for Native Tribes

Devils Tower is a place of deep spiritual significance for over twenty Native American tribes, including the Lakota, Cheyenne, Crow, Arapaho, Kiowa, and Shoshone. For thousands of years, it has been known by names such as Mato Tipila (which can translate to Bear Lodge or Bear’s Tipi) and has served as a location for prayer, vision quests, and sacred ceremonies. The Native American cultural affiliations with Devils Tower are extensive and profound.

This spiritual importance is formally recognized under federal laws, including the American Indian Religious Freedom Act and Executive Order 13007. These guide the National Park Service (NPS) in its management of Devils Tower National Monument, Wyoming, with a directive to protect Native American religious practices and access to sacred sites, similar to protections afforded at other sacred landscapes like Bears Ears National Monument.

Various tribes possess unique oral traditions and legends that explain the Tower’s creation. Many of these stories feature an enormous bear, whose claws are said to have scraped the sides of the rock, forming the distinctive columns as the Tower rose to protect people, often children, who had sought refuge on its summit. Exploring Native American perspectives and legends of Bear Lodge offers rich insight.

It’s important for climbers to recognize that the entire area surrounding the Tower, not just the monolith itself, holds cultural importance. Approaching the broader landscape with mindfulness and respect is a key part of a reverent visit.

Understanding Native American Perspectives on Climbing

To foster empathy and respect, it’s crucial for climbers to understand that many Native Americans view climbing on the Tower as a desecration of a sacred place. This perspective often equates climbing activity to disruptive behavior in other places of worship, such as a church, synagogue, or mosque. The cultural importance and tribal connections are deeply felt. This viewpoint is important for any avid climber to consider.

The June Voluntary Climbing Closure is the primary mechanism through which the National Park Service (NPS) and the climbing community acknowledge and respect these deeply held beliefs. This closure represents a significant compromise, attempting to balance recreational access with the preservation of cultural and spiritual practices at this Bear Lodge cultural significance site.

Prayer bundles or other religious offerings are sometimes left by Native Americans at the base of the Tower or on its slopes. Climbers must never touch, disturb, or photograph these items. They should be treated with the utmost respect as tangible expressions of spiritual devotion. Learning more about Native American stories about the Tower can deepen this understanding.

We encourage all climbers to take the time to learn more about the cultural significance of the Tower from NPS resources and, where possible, directly from tribal perspectives. This education helps to better appreciate the context of a visit and reinforces the importance of respectful behavior.

Ethical Climbing Practices at a Sacred Site

The most significant way climbers can demonstrate respect for the Bear Lodge cultural significance is by voluntarily abstaining from climbing on Devils Tower during the entire month of June. This act of solidarity, honoring the June Voluntary Climbing Closure, is highly valued by the associated Native American tribes.

Even outside of June, climbers should strive to maintain a low profile. Being mindful of noise levels and visual impact is important, especially if Native American ceremonies are known to be occurring in the vicinity of the Tower. This contributes to a more respectful atmosphere for all.

Adhering strictly to all Leave No Trace principles is vital, not only for environmental protection but also as a profound sign of respect for a place that others hold sacred. This includes packing out all trash, and particularly human waste, to keep the climbing area pristine. These ethical climbing practices are fundamental.

Climbers can further show respect by educating themselves and others about the Tower’s cultural importance. Promoting respectful climbing practices and striving for inclusive climbing experiences that consider all stakeholders within the community helps foster a lasting culture of reverence. For more on this, the NPS often highlights the support of groups like the Access Fund for the closure, which ties into broader perspectives on climbing ethics at sacred sites.

Echoes on the Columns: A Rich Climbing History

The history of climbing Devils Tower is as fascinating and rugged as the Tower itself. From ingenious early ascents using rudimentary methods to the pioneering technical climbs that opened up its faces, the story of human endeavor on these phonolite columns is a captivating one. This section recounts some of these key moments and figures.

Early Ascents and the Stake Ladder

The very first documented ascent of Devils Tower occurred in 1893, not by rock climbing as we recognize it today, but through remarkable ingenuity. Local ranchers William Rogers and Willard Ripley achieved this feat by constructing a 350-foot wooden stake ladder, painstakingly driven into a continuous crack system on the Tower’s flank. This method was used for several early ascents before technical climbing began.

Adding to this pioneering story, Linnie Rogers, William’s wife, became the first woman to ascend the Tower via the stake ladder in 1895. This was a notable achievement for the era, demonstrating considerable courage. Portions of this historic ladder are reportedly still visible on the Tower, a tangible link to these early efforts. You can learn more about the history of the first climbers from NPS accounts.

The sheer determination and inventive spirit involved in the stake ladder ascent captured public imagination and marked the true beginning of Devils Tower’s climbing legacy. It set the stage for future adventurers to gaze upon the monolith and dream of reaching its summit.

Interestingly, prior to this, geologist Henry Newton, during the 1875 Jenney Expedition, had described the Tower as appearing “inaccessible to anything without wings.” This contemporary observation underscores the perceived formidability of the Tower before Rogers and Ripley proved otherwise.

Wiessner and the Dawn of Technical Climbing

A pivotal moment in the history of climbing Devils Tower arrived in 1937. German-American climber Fritz Wiessner, accompanied by Lawrence Coveney and William P. House, completed the first ascent using modern rock climbing techniques. Their route, now famously known as the Wiessner Route, established a new paradigm for climbing on the Tower.

Wiessner’s exceptional skill and bold climbing style were hallmarks of this ascent. He famously used only a single piton for protection throughout the entire climb, a piece of gear he later deemed unnecessary for the route. This act showcased a profound commitment to free climbing principles and set a high bar for future ascents by modern climbers.

The impact of this steady ascent, which took a swift 4 hours and 46 minutes, was immediate. It demonstrated conclusively that the Tower could be climbed “free,” utilizing rock features for progress and protection points, opening the door for widespread technical exploration. Lawrence Coveney described Wiessner’s lead as “an exhibition of leading such as few climbers ever see.” The evolution of climbing and the CMP provides more context on this era.

The following year, in 1938, Jack Durrance made the first ascent of his namesake route. The Durrance Route Devils Tower provided another classic, slightly easier line to the summit, further cementing the Tower’s burgeoning reputation as a significant and desirable climbing objective in North America.

Modern Era and Notable Ascents

The evolution of climbing on Devils Tower continued robustly from the mid-20th century. The “free climbing revolution” of the 1970s, significantly spurred by advancements in gear such as sticky rubber shoes and the invention of spring-loaded camming devices, played a large role. This new climbing equipment made climbing safer and faster, leading to a surge in climber numbers and the establishment of harder routes and new first ascents. This new equipment made climbing distinct from techniques used on a sandstone rock climb, for example. The Tower itself is known for pure rock routes, not mixed climbs or ice climbs.

A peculiar chapter in the Tower’s history is the George Hopkins parachute incident of 1941. Hopkins intentionally parachuted onto the summit as a publicity stunt but became stranded for six days before a climbing team, notably led by Jack Durrance, could rescue him. This event brought unexpected national attention to Devils Tower. The ‘free climbing revolution’ also opened up lines that might traverse a large treed ledge or previously inaccessible faces.

Many notable modern climbers have left their mark on the Tower. Frank Sanders, a prolific local guide, is credited with thousands of ascents. The late Todd Skinner, a true pioneer of hard free rock climbing in America (though also accomplished in other disciplines like alpine climbing and having an appreciation for skills seen in ice climbing, different in character from climbs on, say, Granite Peak), established numerous difficult and visionary routes on its steep columns. Reading about Todd Skinner’s contributions to climbing offers insight into his impact.

Recent achievements, often documented on platforms like Mountain Project, continue this legacy. For example, Jesse Dufton’s 2024 first blind lead of the challenging 5.10d El Matador route was an incredible display of skill and determination. Such feats, like the blind climber’s ascent of El Matador, echo the legacy of pioneering free ascents seen on other iconic formations and ensure the Tower’s history continues to be written.

Key Takeaways for Your Devils Tower Climb

An ascent of Devils Tower is a memorable undertaking. To ensure it’s successful, safe, and respectful, consider these final points before committing to a summit bid:

• Preparation is Paramount: Thoroughly research your chosen Devils Tower climbing route. Understand its grade, the specific Devils Tower trad climbing gear required, and honestly assess your traditional climbing abilities. Routes here are often sustained and committing.
• Respect Regulations: Always complete the mandatory climber registration with the NPS. Be acutely aware of and strictly adhere to the June voluntary climbing closure Devils Tower climbing period. Always check for any seasonal falcon nesting closures before you even approach the climb.
• Embrace Cultural Sensitivity: Recognize that Devils Tower (Bear Lodge) is a Sacred site climbing ethics Devils Tower. Climb with reverence, educate yourself on its Bear Lodge cultural significance, and follow ethical practices. This is especially true regarding the June closure and avoiding any disturbance of potential cultural artifacts.
• Prioritize Safety: Always wear a helmet. Be vigilant about rockfall hazards. Understand rappel procedures thoroughly – inspect anchors carefully and use two ropes. Be prepared for Wyoming’s unpredictable weather, as conditions can change rapidly.
• Leave No Trace: This cannot be stressed enough. Pack out everything you pack in. This explicitly includes all human waste (use WAG bags). Stay on established trails to minimize your impact and help preserve this unique natural and cultural landmark found in the Wyoming foothills for future generations.

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