Side 1: The 5 Pillars of a Bomber Placement
1. Rock Quality
Is the rock solid? Tap it. Avoid loose blocks, hollow flakes, and fractures.
2. Constriction
Does the crack taper? Nuts need a narrowing to wedge securely. Avoid parallel or flaring cracks.
3. Surface Contact
Maximize the area of the nut touching the rock. More contact equals more friction and stability.
4. Direction of Pull
Orient the placement to resist the force of a fall (down and out). Check horizontal placements carefully.
5. Set the Piece
Give the sling a sharp, firm tug to wedge the nut securely. This prevents it from wiggling out.
Did you extend it with a quickdraw or sling?
Side 2: Troubleshooting & Common Mistakes
Flowchart: Cleaning a Stuck Nut
1. Look before you touch. Can you see how it was placed?
2. Try a gentle wiggle & upward push with your fingers.
3. If stuck, tap FIRMLY upwards on the bottom with a nut tool.
4. If still stuck, consider abandoning the piece. It's cheaper than an accident.
Top 3 Beginner Mistakes & Solutions
1. Lifting Out: Not extending the placement.
Solution: Use a quickdraw, ALWAYS. On wandering routes, use a longer alpine draw to keep the rope running straight.
2. Bad Rock: Placing gear in loose or hollow-sounding flakes.
Solution: Trust your eyes and ears. If the rock sounds hollow when you tap it, find a different placement.
3. Poor Contact: Rushing a placement that is "tippy" or has minimal contact.
Solution: Slow down. Take the time to try different orientations to maximize the nut's surface contact with the rock.