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Sample Training Plans

Putting It All Together

Plan 1: Red River Gorge Sport Climbing Trip (12 Weeks)

Goal: Peak for a two-week sport climbing trip to an area known for long, steep, endurance-oriented routes. The primary limiter is often power endurance and the ability to recover on jugs. A linear model is well-suited for this single, fixed-date goal.

  • Focus: Building aerobic capacity and general strength.
    Climbing (2-3x/wk): 2x ARCing (2x30 min), 1x Density Bouldering.
    Conditioning (2x/wk): Full-body strength (3x10 reps squats, deadlifts, pull-ups, push-ups).

  • Focus: Increasing maximal finger and pulling strength.
    Climbing (2x/wk): 1x Limit Bouldering, 1x projecting session.
    Conditioning (2x/wk): Max Hangs (2 sets of 5x10s), Weighted Pull-ups (3x5 reps).

  • Focus: Specific preparation for RRG-style climbing.
    Climbing (2-3x/wk): 2x Bouldering 4x4s on steep terrain, 1x projecting on long routes.
    Conditioning (1x/wk): Power Endurance Repeaters.

  • Focus: Shedding fatigue while maintaining fitness.
    Week 11: Reduce volume by ~40%.
    Week 12: Reduce volume by ~60-70%. Focus on rest and mental prep.

Plan 2: Yosemite Trad & Big Wall Trip (16 Weeks)

Goal: Prepare for a multi-week trip demanding a wide range of skills: crack/slab technique, all-day stamina, and strength for bouldery cruxes. A block periodization model is ideal for developing a primary focus while maintaining other essential qualities.

  • Primary Focus (70%): Maximal strength. 2x Limit Bouldering & Max Hangs, 2x heavy lifting.
    Maintenance (30%): 1x endurance session (ARCing or moderate trad).

  • Primary Focus (70%): Power and contact strength. 2x Campus Boarding/dynamic bouldering, 1x plyometrics.
    Maintenance (30%): 1x Max Hangs, 1x moderate multi-pitch.

  • Primary Focus (70%): All-day stamina and system efficiency. Focus on long multi-pitch days, practice hauling/jumaring.
    Maintenance (30%): 1x short bouldering session.

  • Focus: Recovery and peaking. Significantly reduce volume. Finalize gear and logistics. Prioritize sleep and nutrition.